doha daily 10/16/07

Gone are…

• the days of closed coffee shops and restaurants from sunrise to sunset during the month of Ramadan
• being surrounded by 7 white Landcruisers at every traffic light and/or roundabout
• the continuous influx of sand/dust into the house


Hello...soy lattes, carne asada, recycling, hot and cold taps and garbage disposals...not to mention the trees, the grass, etc…it’s amazing what we’ve missed!!!

When Thierry accepted the position with the Pelican Hill Resort in Newport Beach, we were at the tail end of our vacation in France, so going back to Doha wasn’t as hard as it had been in the past after a significant amount of time off. After that, it was a matter of getting things ready for the move. You can imagine I made SEVERAL lists. But if you ever live in Doha and get yourself in a MUST SELL situation, www.qatarliving.com is the way to go! We had just about one page of items to sell, so with almost 3 weeks to go, I posted the list online. WHOA! I clicked the ‘send’ button at 930a and by the time I got down the street (935a) the phone calls started rolling in. There must be people watching that site 24/7. I received approx 70 calls over the course of the day and could only speak with/return 30 of them. Strangers were coming into the house to see what other goodies we had available besides what was outlined on the list – as if they didn’t quite trust what was mentioned. They would point to an item NOT for sale and ask if they could buy it. It was exhausting! The final mentionable about that day was the family who showed up at 800p to look at what was left for sale – the man loaded his car with what they wanted and realized he didn’t have any money, so he left his wife and 11-month old to wait at our place while he went to find an ATM with his brother. I insisted on them all going together and that it wasn’t necessary, but it didn’t matter. You can imagine Thierry walking through the door at 830p with a woman in her abbaya and her baby sitting in the living room on the sofa…NOT an everyday occurrence. (Although I had WISHED we had more interaction with the local people) And had I known the day was going to be so chaotic, I would have had all of the items for sale boxed and in the middle of the room with price tags on them, so that buyers could just come in and get out. I would have also probably asked everyone in the hood if they had any items for sale and added them to the mix. I think I probably could have sold sand…THAT is how successful that sale was.

Afterwards, everything else just fell into place…Ramadan kind of put a damper on my being able to say goodbye to friends over a cup of Starbuck’s, but Patti fixed that by hosting a happy hour a few days before we left. Almost every friend that I hung with while in Doha was there - it was the best! Thanks Patti! She was also gracious enough to take bags of miscellaneous items from our place that we would never and/or could never bring back to the States, ie…bottles of alcohol, plug adapters – plug adapters seem so expensive in the US, whereas there, they are sold by the dozens at every grocery store / market. Of course, the expat business is so much more vast there. But all it takes is a little thing like power voltage to make me realize how different the US is compared to the rest of the world. Everyone else is running on 220V, whereas we run on 110V. The thing is I am not exactly sure why – I would like to think it is that we are saving LOADS of electricity per capita? And the whole metric thing...

Although we’ve been in Newport Beach now since Oct 4, and Thierry back to work since the 8th, we are still in shock – cars 'occasionally' allowing the right away, the beautiful scenery and palm trees everywhere you look, the familiarity of the Pacific Coast Highway. Besides getting reacquainted with all of the available and overindulgent shopping, it truly is as if we never left. The last month in Doha seemed to crawl the first 29 days and then BAM, we were on the Qatar Airways flight bound for Washington DC. New cell phones, check. Cars, check. All we need is the new home, Physicians and school - wasn't I in this situation just 2 years ago?

Our new contact information is:

Thierry cell 949 375 1937
TGrandsire@pelicanhill.com

Kelcey cell 949 375 1964

It’s GREAT to be back, but sad to bring the Doha Daily to a close after almost 2 full years. Thank you for reading and following our adventure. Who knows what's next? "The Newport Nightly Nouvelle?” or maybe “The SoCal Semi-Weekly?” Suggestions are welcome! I’m quite certain there is a plethora of quirky goings-on here that we could find interesting...

Stay tuned and see you!

Kelcey

doha daily 6/24/07

Hi everyone! Missing you! Let’s just get to it, shall we?! We’ve been and returned from the China/Great Wall Marathon trip – and what a whirlwind it was! Since the return from China until now, time was craawwwwwwling, but as you read this, Tristan and I are on a US-bound airplane, so I am not complaining. It is tough to leave Thierry though, as the mass exodus of expatriates has begun, and you can really feel it in the air…and traffic. Luckily, I’ve had my GREAT friend, Patti, and Tristan, HIS good friend Tessa to help make this time more bearable.

The weather has been averaging 43C (110F) with humidity already reaching close to 50%. The strangest phenomenon, however, occurs when you exit the swimming pool. Even in this extreme heat, you exit the pool, and with the breeze, you are cold. There are chillers that cool the water off, so after about an hour Tristan wants out.

workers cleaning the traffic signals in the heat of the day

There is a new drivers safety campaign around town that is supposed to help transform the chaotic drivers into angels. And ANGELS are what they will be if they continue to run red lights, slamming into law-abiding citizens innocently entering intersections as the traffic lights turn green. Here is a picture which I hope gives you an idea of how the campaigning occurs here – SIGNAGE! And LOTS OF IT! You can find these octagonal signs at every intersection in the city, most of which target the local population, as most of them include photos of Qataris.
As the Ministry (Governmental Office) has decided NOT to allow any kids over the age of 3 to attend Tristan’s current nursery, he has been accepted to the French School and will begin in September. Unlike the American School, the French School gives priority to one’s nationality in Doha.

Being that the UK population is so overwhelmingly evident here, I’ve taken on a new “old” version of the English language. A word like, “bin” for trash has entered my vocab. As well as pram (stroller), nappy (diaper), bits (private parts), bum, bathers (swimming suit – although I still can’t get into that one yet), brill! (as in “that’s brilliant”), fab! (same thing, that’s fab!), nackered (tired), tea (which in fact does NOT mean tea really, but an early dinner – I don’t use that one either, but if someone says it now, I'm good), pissed (actually means drunk), sacked (fired). It is like learning a new language really. Perhaps now we will start talking with an English accent…like Madonna.

Ok, see most of you VERY soon! Can’t wait!

doha daily 4/16/07

President Bush Sr's annual visit to Qatar

Dust…sand…dirt….more sand….sandstorm…dust….’nother sandstorm…eeks! There MUST be a “sandstorm season” and we MUST be in it! All I can think of is how all of that junk in the air is in our lungs…And it seems to never fail that a storm arrives the day after I wash the windows, or the car. Inevitable.
sandstorm in march

Wellllllllllll, let’s see: The Ritz-Carlton’s Sharq Village and Spa is now open to the public, Dunestock ’07 has come and gone, “The Sopranos” are on Satellite TV and airing the season with Steve Buchemi (VERY old, I believe), Thierry and I caught the last night of the UK’s troops’ “Mamma Mia,” there was an article in the paper last month on how the ministry is considering NOT granting expat women a drivers license unless they are working in an attempt to alleviate traffic congestion, so I of course, ran right out and got mine ; ) Just a year late I’m afraid – I had a temporary one but it expired and it is such a pain to obtain anything government related. So, I, like almost every single expat women I know, have been driving around without one. The DMV or MOI as they call it here (Ministry of Interior) is giving me immense trouble with my motorcycle license however, in that they now want me to obtain a letter from the US embassy outlining a sort of “key” as to what the “C” and “M1” classes stand for on my California D.L. Any excuse NOT to issue a woman a motorcycle license is how I first interpreted their demand. Thierry was interested in attending the Harley rally taking place in Dubai at the start of April, but the Saudi government would not issue ANY entry for American riders’ motorcycles, whether trailoring or riding through Saudi Arabia to Dubai.

We went up north and hour’s drive to Fuwairit beach last weekend. And in most of the vehicles sold here when driving faster than 70mph a warning bell sounds until you decrease your speed below 70. Um, you can imagine how happy Thierry was to have that feature in the car ; ) There is actually some vegetation that can be seen along the ‘freeway’ on the drive up and rock formations along the sea line. The only bummer was all of the trash that was left there by visitors.

I have wanted to write all month about the weather. Basically, we went from 16C (61F) in the am and 25C (77F) high to an instant 25C in the am and almost 40C (104F) in the afternoon. Really no in between…AND, honestly, until today’s first true blue, the sky has been grey and hazy. Today, although it is 34C (93F) was probably one of the last runs I’ll have outside : (, soon to be permanent treadmill time. I am gearing up for the Beijing ½ Marathon with Ralph, Malia, Jerome and some of their other friends from Shanghai. It is a once in a lifetime experience (although Ralph and Malia will now have run it twice : ) that Thierry and I figure we should take advantage of being on this side of the globe.

Again the newspaper…Today there was an article featured on the trend of Qatari minors getting hooked on alcohol by frequenting Hotel bars. And last week I read that Qatari children need to attend Mosques at a much younger age to alleviate the temptations of international satellite channel exposure. I think the country is actually moving BACKWARDS. Two weeks ago, Qatar honored the birth of the Prophet Mohammed by banning all alcohol service countrywide on a Saturday night. You can imagine the surprised patrons who were unable to order a bottle of wine. And there are several Hotels here that have opened lately, most of which are NOT licensed – seems to be the thing.

See you!

trees / plants in garden planted one year ago - al gore would be so proud

doha daily 3/2/07

Hello! Last week, Thierry and I went on a tour of the new Ritz-Carlton property here, “Sharq Village and Spa.” It has more of that “Old Doha” feel – resembling the style of an old souq with cobblestone passageways and the desert architect of mortar and wood. The lobby is intimate with subdued lighting and an atrium in the center where one can take a coffee. It is slated to open this coming week. Here are some pictures:

approach to Porte Cochere, Porte Cochere and fountain

front desk(s), lobby chandelier and lobby atrium / fountain

pool rear of hotel, 2nd pool further out with view of Doha behind and airplane passing over property (the new airport is being constructed away from this area, so low flying airplanes will not be as visible - according to a friend of ours working for Siemens, the Emir has his own airport being built within the public airport)

guest rooms

spa

See you!

doha daily 2/15/07

NEW MONTH, NEW ATTITUDE!!! All is well here in Doha. The Qatar Masters was in town a few weeks back, and as I wrote to you about it last year, it still remains in our top three for being a place here in Doha that seems so completely ‘western,’ people outside drinking beer in the grassy beer garden, women wearing Bermudas in public…you know? The IMPORTANT things! And the public is so sparse here, you can really see the players closeup. On the 'western note,' there is a Mall just down the street from us, called “Villagio” which is shaping up to look like a cross between the Venetian and Caesar’s Palace in Vegas, except that the ceiling does not change, remaining the ‘cherruby’ blue sky at dusk. And there is a Venice canal that runs through part of it with gondola’s already standing by awaiting Italian-style clad drivers. It’s kind of a tease with the majority of the stores/cafes not yet open but Karen Millen is now there, ABS too, Laundry, Sephora is coming as is Mac, and down the Mall corridor in the still-closed section I can faintly see a Foot Locker sign.

Thierry’s parents and friends were in town for two weeks. And unfortunately while they were here, it rained most of the time, so we (or maybe I) took advantage and played a lot of golf. We did go out on a half-day tour of the desert, using a private company. We did the standard (as I’m told from all of our friends) dune bashing, riding of the camel, stopping and looking at the inland sea. Good times…

And then we went to Dubai. Whoa. WHAT a place. I mean, what a place compared to Doha. It actually feels a bit like Vegas, as everything there is so faux, without the gambling. And the beaches were beautiful. For everyone that has told me that Doha is going to be like Dubai in 10 years, I say, NO WAY. From the time I stepped off the plane, Dubai felt YEARS ahead of Doha. The trees, flowers…much more environmentally sophisticated. The amount of construction that is going on there is incredible, and it’s not just in one centralized area, like it seems here in Doha, along the Corniche. It is everywhere there. HUGE skyscrapers, the world’s tallest building, golf courses, chic restaurants, hotels and private villas where you either take a dhow boat or golf cart to get to your front door. The shopping…I think in Dubai you feel the wealth everywhere – that, and the traffic, HEAVY traffic. From here, the trip to Dubai by plane is 45 minutes, like whisking up to San Fran from LA.

The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai - four years ago there was nothing around; now, it is surrounded by skyscrapers

The weather is now 17C (63F) in the am and 24C (75F) by midday. I’ve been running outside to the stadium down the street. That must look funny because you don’t really see runners around the hood unless you go to the Corniche along the sea. Even though there are hand-laid brick sidewalks lining the streets, there aren’t that many people using them yet. Perhaps in 10 years…

I had the opportunity to record another radio commercial for Qatar’s telephone company, Qtel. Also, there is an American Arts festival beginning tomorrow running for 3 weeks sponsored by Georgetown University. Can't wait to see that! Jazz, Photography, Poetry.

Tristan still liking nursery, Thierry still working heavily and we are once again starting to talk about summer plans - it's never too soon!

tristan at souq waqif wanting to ride the pony and then kind of not wanting to ride the pony

See you!

doha daily 1/21/07

Happy New Year! And sorry so late. But everyday I have NOT written, I have certainly wanted to and have been thinking of things to write about, as there will always be something new to report. The trouble is, lately, it has been the same ole’ thing. How many times can I write to you about the fact that people (mostly Qatari’s that I can see) continue to drive around the city allowing their kids to jump up and down in the front seat, OR that I hear of Philippine maids who frequently flee their sponsors’ homes due to the fact they are being mistreated, like beaten or raped, OR even the maids who have had a baby out of wedlock and are thrown in jail until their trial and then deported when finally found guilty 11 months later because one MUST be wed to have a baby, AND that each time you make a trip to the Supermarket(s), there is a large chance of you NOT finding the product that you specifically need for a dinner you are making that very night, OR how laborers (unpaid at that) are still living 20 to a room when the size of the room can normally only accommodate 3 at the most, OR the lack of customer service in virtually all venues – try calling any retail outlet to ask a question and if the person you have asked for is on the phone with another customer you are asked the question, “Could you please call back in 5 minutes?” To which I reply, “Sure,” but 9 out of 10 times I forget to call back and when I DO remember, it is lunchtime and no one answers the phone between 12noon and 4p and by that time I am outside with Tristan playing in the hood and then it’s 730p already and now the store is officially closed for the evening so I have to put it on my list of things for the following day – WHEW! Let me tell you…for someone who likes to make lists and cross off the completed items at the end of the day…Doha can be a frustrating place.

Rome was not built in a year...

During the holiday vacation, it was very quiet around here; not much traffic, cold weather so no one hanging outside, etc…Thierry and I had a “Syriana moment” as we have come to call them. We were jogging behind the compound along a deserted road through the white backdrop of sand, rock and construction. It was 1130a and time for the morning call to prayer (There are 5 a day). The reverberating chanting from the various mosques’ loudspeakers that are scattered over the countryside all started up at the same time. We had just watched the movie, Syriana,” the night before and concluded that had we watched the movie in the States last year, it would have been so foreign to us, but now, we recognize the TATA buses, the Mitsubishi, Nissan and Daihatsu trucks, the laborers wearing their blue one-piece overalls. Anyway, it was strange and the feeling seemed so surreal.

Eid Al Adha fell during the New Year holiday this year. It is a 3-day holiday commemorating Abraham sacrificing his son to God – hence that explained the several sheep I saw in the backs of trucks and Land Cruisers on their way to the slaughterhouse. And an article published in the newspaper one week before Eid began outlined the newly organized ticketing system for those waiting in line to have their animals slaughtered at the slaughterhouse-apparently, it has been very disorganized in past years. After Eid, there were two separate articles written about the fact that there is not much to do here in Doha for entertainment. This is so true as you can name the family-gathering venues on one hand, ie zoo, oryx farm, al biddha park, Aladdin’s kingdom (amusement park/rides, etc) There have also been opinion articles written on how the police/authorities here seem inconsistent on issuing tickets to those who break the law, particularly while driving. I hope it helps.

Ok, going to run, but I will certainly not let another month go by before writing again. “See” you soon.
watering the garden late dec

tristan's masculine side - watching motorcycle trials at Lusail Circuit yesterday, Jan 20

tristan's feminine side - playing fairies with isabelle

doha daily 12/17/06

….Alright! What is the deal with the rain of late? Last year in Pasadena with days of torrential downpour and mold up to our ars’ and NOW, Doha! Breaking 45 yr-old records left and right. The roads here, however, have not been constructed to handle the amount that keeps falling and thick muddy water is pooling everywhere. Today’s temperature started at 16C (61F) and by the time 9a rolled around, it was down to 10C (50F). I went out and bought two space heaters and two fleece jammies for Tristan, as there is no heat in the house. I imagine the heaters will just follow us around the house for the next few weeks, maybe months, not sure, as everyone says this weather is more typical for late Jan.

Luckily (given the weather) for Doha and its guests, the Asian Games finished Friday evening. The Games did not affect daily life as everyone suspected it would – in fact, compared to this morning, traffic was much lighter. Tristan and I hit some of the venues during the day, like gymnastics. I also saw men’s diving and ladies’ Sepak Takraw; basically, volleyball played with the feet instead of the hands – very interesting, as I have never seen this before. During their warm-up, the players kicked their legs up into the air with their knees touching their ears – I don’t think I need to go any further with that one. The fireworks were really spectacular at the opening and closing ceremonies and the nice thing is, I was able to just walk outside and see them in the air as we are so close to the stadium – it was KIIIEEEND of like watching them from our backyard on Anita Drive July 4th from the Rose Bowl.

an orry (asian games mascot - oryx) embroidered onto the back of an abbaya - japan vs vietnam in the sepak takraw semi-finals - tristan clapping for gymnastics

With the Asian Games came a lot of different cultural activities, all free to the public. Tristan and I went to a Dinosaur exhibit two separate times. At the same venue was also an ancient jewelry and costume exhibition. There was also a multi-cultural fashion show…LOTS of things! It is hard work, NOT working ; )

What else…we had a Christmas party last week in our compound. I played Mrs. Claus and Thierry rode Santa in on the back of his Harley – a BIG success. I think Thierry had more fun than the 62 kids that were there. The Ritz-Carlton has its annual tree-lighting ceremony tomorrow evening and there is supposed to be a “Christmas Carols in the Desert,” excursion – of which I am trying to find out more detail. It’s funny there is A LOT of Christmas cheer here for it being a Muslim country. Christmas sales are popping up and the newspapers are really targeting expat shopping trends.

One of the women I have met here is now reading the English news for the QBS (Qatar Broadcast Station) radio station – they broadcast English and French news/music, etc. I told her that I would have LOVED to have done that - be a DJ or maybe Katie Couric…So, one week ago, she phoned me and asked if I could record a radio advertisement with her as the spot needed a second English-speaking person…YES PLEASE! So, somewhere here in Doha (of course, NEVER when I am listening to the radio), is an advertisement running for the Dream Shopping Center boasting 5000 Christmas decorations for sale as well as a live Santa Claus nightly! C’mon down!!!

I think that it being our first Christmas abroad, I am in a slight state of funk because we are not in the States, where I HAVE been for the last 30-some odd Christmas’ (one in Hawaii) but after almost one year of being here, I (We) have met some of the nicest people, and knowing that they too are going be here, makes it a touch easier. Lots of coffee, wine, activities, sports (there is an aerobics class here in the compound 3 times a week that I have been attending), so just keeping myself busy. Thierry and Tristan too, of course : )

The Harley-Davidson dealership has its official opening Dec. 21 in Al Wakra (an old city just outside of Doha). Here is a picture I took two weeks ago. They are most likely working around the clock to get it stocked.


And we are now the proud owners of a 210cm artificial Christmas tree - I would like to think that we are contributing to the environment.

See you (before Christmas, I’m hoping)!